Posts Tagged pattern

Reversible Green/Black + Red/White Doublet for Gregor

20 July 2011

After a busy couple of days filled with “real life” activities, I’ve finally managed to (mostly) complete the reversible doublet (or jerkin, as it has no arms right now) for Gregor. Again, I used the same Simplicity 4059 pattern as I did for my son’s doublet and I’m very pleased at how it turned out. It’s not yet complete — I need to add the trim around the peplum, slip-stitch the red linen bottom down, and hand-sew the eyelets. As that is all handwork, I’m saving it for the late evenings when I’m just hanging out with Gregor or playing D&D. The red you can see on the edges of the peplum on the green side should get mostly covered by the black trim.

 

Double Doublets: Simplicity 4059 Pattern

16 July 2011

Alexander wants a gold vest for his pirate outfit, and Gregor needs something dressier than a tunic, so I’m making both of them doublets. This project predates my Garb-A-Day craziness, but I’ve decided to try to squeeze it in anyway. Yes, I am crazy, in case you’re wondering. Anyway, as I’ve never made a doublet before, and am even less familiar with male clothing than female, I’m using a commercial pattern — specifically Simplicity 4059. The pattern designer  (Andrea Schewe) is the same one who did the Tudor gown I made and absolutely love, and which has been determined to be reasonably historically accurate by “those who know.” And I really like how this doublet looks — it appears to be based on Tudor doublets, and the armless style is good for hot weather. I know I really should research it more, but I’ll save that for future projects — for now, I just need to get them clothed! Here’s a photo of the doublet from the pattern:

Doublet B from Simplicity 4059

Alexander’s doublet will be made of a gold 100% cotton canvas twill with red linen as a lining, and Gregor’s is a green striped cotton canvas (same fabric as my Tudor gown) with green broadcloth as the lining. I’ve already cut out all the pattern pieces for both. So tomorrow I’ll begin sewing Alexander’s doublet — with any luck, I can finish it within the day. I should also note that I’m actually making both doublets from the same set of patterns — size XS for Alexander and XL for Gregor. Alexander’s will likely be a little loose and a little long, but hey, he can grow into it, right? If it’s too big, maybe I’ll just make him a belt, or add a tie to the side that we can use to tighten the back.

Oh, and I plan to hand-sew the eyelets (rather than use grommets) to give the doublet a more historically-accurate look. For the trim on Alexander’s doublet, I want to use the Golden Path of Fire tablet-woven band that Alexander came up with and has been working on. Not sure what trim to use on Gregor’s doublet, however — maybe a silver cord?

 

 

 

 

Drafting Patterns for Smocks and Kirtles

3 July 2011

I finally got the chance tonight to begin my Pennsic garb sewing. I decided to start with the simplest garment, the smock, and work my way out. I drafted a pattern based on my measurements and the instructions at http://www.elizabethancostume.net/smockpat/. I cut out some inexpensive muslin, sewed it, and it worked!! The smock was surprisingly easy to make and looked good. The only thing I’d change from my original pattern are the sleeves — I want them to be a bit wider and a bit longer — I think an inch at least.

So after my success with the smock, I moved on to the kirtle. I didn’t have any muslin for that, so I raided my stash of cheap fabrics procured from Scrap Box (recycled materials shop) which cost nearly nothing to me. I found some ugly brown twill that I think must be at least part polyester (but it wasn’t stretchy!) and used it to make a kirtle. Again, I drafted a custom pattern from my measurements and these directions: http://www.elizabethancostume.net/kirtlepat/gored.html. I decided to go with an A-Line Kirtle because I like the option of wearing my farthingale under it. The first try worked pretty well, though I think the shoulder straps need to be a bit shorter and the waist narrower. Those are both very easy to fix when I go to use the actual linen for the real kirtle. I tried my farthingale under it and it looked good.

Unfortunately, I didn’t measure the brown fabric before I cut it, so I’m not sure how much material I needed. If I were to guess, I’d say between 3 and 4 yards. The circumference of the skirt bottom is 132″, but I pieced it to make the most of the material. I think I’ll take apart the brown test kirtle apart and lay it out on my linen, using it as a pattern.

All in all, great progress for the evening! Once the patterns are down, I think I’ll be able to cut and sew these pretty easily.

Emerald Waves of the Crimson Guard Band: Tablet-Weaving Pattern

16 June 2011

I’ve started on my fifth tablet-weaving band, which I am calling the “Emerald Waves of the Crimson Guard” band. Yes, that’s an awfully long and fancy name for a little tablet-weaving band, but it’s FUN! Here’s how it looks so far:

Emerald Waves of the Crimson Guard Band

This is a pretty simple threaded-in pattern — the work is mostly in the threading of the cards, not the actual weaving. I got the pattern from a German site (Flinkhand.de). It takes 24 cards and three colors — here’s how the cards were threaded:

Emerald Waves Pattern

The card turning is very easy — four forward, four backward. It’s a great thing to do while Gregor and I are playing the D&D (Dungeons & Dragons) game he made for me (which is amazingly awesome, I must say). I’d love to say more about the D&D game, but well … I better ask him first!

This band is for my Irish dress, which I’m making for the Saline Celtic Festival which is being held July 8-9, 2011. I should start working on the dress itself, but I want to wait until at least July 1. Not only do I have a work deadline July 1 and really should focus on it, but I am in the midst of losing weight and want to wait a bit so the dress isn’t too loose on me. Couple weeks will do the trick!