The new “Brave” movie by Disney/Pixar is coming out tomorrow on Friday, June 22. The movie takes place in 10th century Scotland and features a skilled archer named “Merida.” By all preliminary accounts, this is going to be a great movie — it already has a 78% fresh rating from RottenTomatoes.com and it’s generating a lot of buzz for it’s excellent attention to detail in accurate archery, beautiful music, great storytelling, and so on. And while it is a computer-animated movie, I know from experience that this sort of movie appeals to adults as well as kids, and geeky adults at that … I saw movies like this, as an adult, long before I had my son. I think the demographic is particularly good here for getting “Brave” movie-goers interested in the SCA!

So how to do it? My thought is to have a bunch of our local members meet up, wearing GARB, and watch “Brave” together. It would be a fun group activity AND we’d get people asking about who we are and what we do, generating interest and excitement for SCA. I’ve already spoken to our local movie theater about having a table in their lobby, and they’ve agreed … and they are giving us some free movie tickets! So we’ll be hanging out in the lobby in the afternoon, then all seeing the movie together for the 7:00 pm showing. Should be lots of fun! And perhaps we’ll interest some people in our wonderful organization.

To prepare for our excursion to the movie theater, I’ve created two flyers specific to “Brave.” I offer them both to anyone within the SCA who would like to use them for recruitment purposes. Both are in PDF format and are “fillable,” meaning you can replace the paragraph at the bottom with information about your local group. I’ve also created artwork for the flyers, and I’ve Creative Release Form giving anyone in the SCA permission to publish it in any SCA publication, including print, web, and electronic. It’s just a simple drawing of two archers in the style of the 11th century Bayeux Tapestry — the one of the left is a true representation of an archer in the tapestry, but the one on the left is my artistic representation of a red-haired girl in a blue dress, who may or may not look like Merida!

Archers inspired by those in the Bayeux Tapestry

Here are the two flyers — click the images to download the fillable PDFs:

If you use these, I’d love to hear how they worked for you.

[I’m working on adding information to The Barony of Cynnabar’s Newcomer page, and this is the first of several short and sweet articles I intend to write. – Genoveva]

Our children will lead tomorrow’s Society, and we encourage them to join in the fun today! It’s possible for most children, depending on their age and interest level, to participate in nearly every aspect of what we do in the SCA. The Society is not only a fabulous way to do fun things with your children, but it’s a tremendous learning opportunity for them as well. Yet it’s important to stress that the SCA is a family activity — most everything you’ll do together with your children under your direct supervision. Here’s a brief overview of how you can get your children involved and find their own special place in an SCA group:

Garb (Clothing) — Dressing in medieval and renaissance-styled clothing is one of the best ways for your child to get into the mindset of “historical recreation.” I urge you not to make the mistake of thinking they won’t want to “dress up” or “they’re just kids, no one will care.” A simple tunic works for both girls and boys, and is easy and inexpensive to make — the tunic can go right over their normal clothes for convenience and comfort. If you’re interested in costuming, get your kids involved in choosing clothing they’ll enjoy wearing and picking out colors and fabrics. When I asked my son what he might like to wear if he were “in the old days,” he answered, “a pirate!” So together we settled on Elizabethan-era clothing of a doublet and breeches. He picked out the materials and even created the trim with tablet weaving (a new craft to learn!). He wears his garb with pride, and looks amazing!

Garb Tip #1: I made my son’s garb a little big, so he’s still able to wear it a year later and I estimate he still has a couple more years left before he outgrows it and we pass it on to a younger member.

Garb Tip #2: You don’t have to have lots of outfits for kids — you’ll notice Alexa wears her gold doublet in most of his photos. Kids are generally content to wear the same garb to events, and may take comfort in familiarity of it. Just be sure you can wash their garb in some manner, as kids get dirty! My daughter’s doublet isn’t machine washable, but the white shirt she wears is … and I wash it a lot!

Arts & Crafts — I don’t know about your kids, but my son ADORES arts and crafts. And the SCA is the perfect place to learn and try new crafts because we’re all researching and trying out handicrafts of all types. Many events will offer crafts for kids to do — things my son has made in just the last six months include a wooden pirate ship, an ornament, a leather pouch, marbled paper, cookies, spinning top, hammered copper, beaded favors, heraldic devices, and a working catapult! Check the Children’s Activities on an event’s schedule to find out what might be available. You can also do historical arts and crafts right in your home or local group — good projects for children include painting, tablet weaving, cooking, and embroidery. Kids may even be able to enter some arts & sciences displays and competitions, including the Youth Craftmens Faire and Prize Tourney in the spring and fall.

Craft Tip #1: If you’re going to an event without formal kids activities, bring along a craft box with historical crafts. I like to keep a craft box filled with clay, beads, and period games (such as pick-up sticks), all of which are easily obtainable at stores.

Alexa’s boffer axe

Martial Arts — SCA “combat” is considered a Western martial art, and youths ages 6-17 can get involved in what’s called “boffer” combat. Boffers are padded lengths of PVC plastic with handles, allowing kids to learn combat techniques without being harmed. Kids have armor requirements like the adults, though their rules differ and less armor is required. You can get inexpensive armor by purchasing things like street hockey helmets from a used sporting goods store. If you’re interested in youth combat, ask your group’s Knight Marshall about how to get in touch with a Youth Combat Marshall and start learning!

Fencing — Youth ages 6-17 can also fence in the SCA!  From age 6 to 13, youth use plastic swords that cost about $20, and the same armor otherwise as an adult (gorget, mask, etc) — local fencing groups often will have youth loaner gear so children can first experience fencing for free. From age 14-17, they are allowed to use metal swords like adults, but only allowed to fence youth-approved adult fencers or other youths and are not allowed to participate in non-youth tournaments.  Again, fencing groups will usually have loaner gear for this age of youth also (since it exactly matches the gear for adults, just perhaps a bit smaller). [Information courtesy of Birke, Cynnabar’s Fencing Champion]

Archery — The Disney/Pixar “Brave” movie (summer 2012) brings a resurgence in kids’ interest in archery, and the SCA is a particularly good place to learn youth archery. A number of events encourage youth archery, which has an even lower barrier to entry than youth combat.

Service — A big aspect of being a member of the SCA is giving back to the community, and kids are encouraged to participate as well. Depending on their age, children can assist in group service and crafting projects, help retain for royalty and barons/baronesses, teach classes on arts and crafts they enjoy, and help other children feel welcome at meetings, practices, and events. My son, who is 7 at the time I’m writing this article, has done each of these things as proud member of the Barony of Cynnabar, from simply helping to keep a water cup full for someone who is otherwise occupied and painting shields for an upcoming war to teaching an embroidery class and folding brochures (and encouraging other kids into helping him fold said brochures). Your Kingdom may also offer a Page School to help develop leadership skills and promote the skills and knowledge of the Middle Ages, which is a fun (and recognizable) way for kids to contribute.

Alexa helping wrap presents at a group fundraiser

It’s important to note that there are responsibilities on the part of both the parents and the kids, but I consider them all basic common sense. Parents are responsible for the supervision, care, behavior, and well being of the children attending SCA activities at all times, minor waivers are required for minor children (they are available when you arrive at an event), etc. Children should only attend events with parental/guardian supervision, exhibit appropriate behavior at all times, and must be able to tell an adult their parent(s) SCA name, legal name, and where they can be found. Check with your Kingdom’s Minister of Youth for more details on their Youth Policy.

Putting together a puzzle at an event without organized kids activities

You may be wondering if your child will be interested in all this. I’ve experienced a wide variety of interest levels in children in the SCA, from “barely there” to “totally engaged.” The biggest common denominator in whether a child takes an interest appears to have a lot to do with their parent’s own interest level and encouragement of it in their child. If this is just “your thing,” and you’re dragging your kids along without any input or encouragement, it’s very likely they won’t enjoy themselves or be “bored.” If, on the other hand, you actively involve your children in planning activities, choosing events, packing, and helping out, you’ll find they are often active and engaged. That said, as children get older is a natural and healthy for them to seek our their own interests. Even in those cases, it’s healthy for children to experience “boredom” because it prompts them to seek out things, within their current context, rather than wait for you to entertain them. Don’t be afraid of boredom — it can lead to quite amazing things, given adequate supervision, of course. Teenagers can be a whole different scenario, and I don’t feel qualified to speak to that situation yet, so I encourage you to check out the SCA’s article on “Your Teenager and the SCA – Some Answers for Parents.”

I, for one, am over the moon happy about discovering the SCA and experiencing it with my son in the Barony of Cynnabar within the Middle Kingdom. It gives us quality time together doing something we both enjoy, it educates and stimulates his young mind, it teaches him how to behave around adults, it helps his interpersonal skills with other children, and it makes him feel involved in something bigger than our small family. I encourage all parents and families to get your kids involved in the SCA!

If you have questions about kids in the SCA, I’m happy to answer questions from a parent’s perspective, but please note that I am not a Youth Minister nor can I speak to SCA policy. Feel free to share this article with others (with proper attribution please).

In our Landsknecht/German Garb at Court. Photo by Lady Arielle

The Landsknecht were famed German mercenaries from the late 15th century to the middle of the 16th century. The daring soldiers were well compensated for their dangerous work, and when you combine that with the fact that they were exempt from most sumptuary laws, you get a group of people who enjoyed dressing flamboyantly. Their clothing tended to be bright (dye was pricey) and slashed (showy and hid tears and rips). Feathers were common because the merchants who followed the train sold them, and it was easy to buy one and just “stick a feather in your hat.” To learn more about the history of the Landsknecht, I highly recommend the 2002 book, Landsknecht Soldier by John Richards — it is well researched and illustrated.

A number of resources for Landsknecht garb is available online. Here are links to several I find very helpful:

Renaissance Costuming FAQ – Scroll down to the section on Landsknecht about midway down for a good overview of what men and women wore.

St. Maximilian – The web site of a company of the St. Maximilian Landsknecht Re-enactment Guild (check out the Costuming Guidelines).

Landsknecht Guild of St. Maurice – Check out their Resources page!

Landknechts & German Ren – Many images, woodcuts, and modern illustrations

Trossfrau and Landknechts – Period woodcuts depicting the women of the Landsknechts

Landsknect Dress Diary – Good detail!

Landsknechtsportal – Translated from German, and not updated recently, but full of patterns, information, and cultural information

The Real Landsknecht Page – A bit hard to follow, but some useful images and information

FiberGeek’s Landsknecht Diary – Dress diaries, image sources, and details on constructing a Woffenrock

German Captain’s Woffenrock – Dress diary, resources, images

The Frazzled Frau – An entire web site documenting German women’s garb. There isn’t much Landsknecht specifically, but several of the styles in the first half of the 16th century translate to female Landknecht wear

SCA German Renaissance Garb – Excellent resource with lots of images, research, and projects!

Woffenrock Dress Diary – Not entirely period, but interesting — and contains a number of links to source images which are helpful.

Hats and Underwear of the German/Swiss Woman from the 15th century – Not in English, but full of great information.

Gregor in his Woffenrock and Tellerbarret

Early German Renaissance Costumes – Excellent dress diaries

Landsknecht Woodcut Gallery – 24 images!

German Ren Costume – list on Yahoo Groups (will have to join to see messages)

Patterns:

Woffenrock by Reconstructing History – I used this to make Gregor’s Woffenrock and I think it turned out well.

Kampfrau or Common Woman’s Dress by Reconstructing History – Haven’t used it, but have it

German Accessories by Reconstructing History – I’ve tried several of these accessories and they worked well

A student reading my booklet during court at Val Day

Based on feedback from one of my first students (Erica), I’ve updated my Blackwork Embroidery booklet to show stitches from the previous stages on the patterns. While I was at it, I made the patterns larger and added several photos of things like needles, hoops/frames, and various accoutrements useful in blackwork embroidery. This added four pages to the little booklet, bringing it to a grand total of 20. The booklet is completely free and you can download it at:

http://honorbeforevictory.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Blackwork-Embroidery-Booklet-v2b.pdf

Please note that I retain copyright. You may print it out for personal use. If you want to make multiple copies, please contact me for permission. All I ask in return is if you make something from the booklet, please share a photo of it with me!

Suggestions, comments, and all feedback always welcome!

Update: Many thanks to Jackie for noticing a couple of mistakes which have now been corrected!

I find it fascinating that there are still copies and facsimiles of embroidery pattern books from the 16th century. I know that those pattern books were used by embroiderers, needleworkers, and ladies alike, so to be able to refer and use them myself really strikes a chord with me. But, because these pattern books are scattered about, I keep losing track of them. Some of these books are just illustrations, but were also used as inspirations for embroidery work (such as emblem books), so I’m including them here as well. I’m also listing books just a bit into the 17th century because I’ve seen the designs in them on late 16th century artifacts — often these books may have been assembled or printed earlier, and additional printings were made at the later date. So here, for my references and yours, is a list of 16th century pattern books for needlework:

Modelbuch aller art Nehewercks und Stickens – George Gilbers, reprint of 1527 book

Punti Tagliati – Giardineto Novo, 1921 reprint of a 1550 book

A Scholehouse for the Needle – Richard Schorleyker, 1632

Les Singvliers Et Novveaux Povrtraicts – Federic Vinciolo, first printed in 1587, French

New Modelbuch – Federico di Vinciolo, 1594

Schön Neues Modelbuch – Johann Siebmacher, 1597

Patrons de broderie et de lingerie du XVle siecle – Hippolyte Cocheris, Bibliothèque Mazarine

La Vera Perfezione del Disegno – Giovanni Ostaus, 1561

Musterbuch für Stickereien und Spitzen – Ernst Wasmuth, 1616 (and here is part 2)

Needlework Patterns from Renaissance Germany: Designs recharted by Baroness Kathryn Goodwyn, OL from Schon Neues Modelbuch, 1597

Flowers of the Needle: A compendium of seven Italian needlework pattern books of the 16th century, from 1531 to 1567 by Baroness Kathryn Goodwyn, OL

I will update this list as I find more. If you know of more, please post a comment!

My Embroidered Caul

I’m pleased to report that I have finished my blackworked and plaited braid caul. I had the pleasure of displaying and wearing the caul the first time two days ago at 12th Night! It looks really lovely and I’m very pleased with it. Many thanks to Countess Ianthe d’Averoigne, author of The New Carolingian Modelbook and member of the Order of the Laurel, for the use of two of her charted botanicals which appear as fills in my design. I charted the rest of the fills from various period extant pieces, which you can read all about in my documentation below! If you’re interested in making your own caul, cap, or other blackwork/braided item, I refer you to my tutorial booklets on Blackwork Embroidery and the Elizabethan Plaited Braid Stitch. All I ask in return is that if you make something that was inspired by something I did or wrote about, please send me a note and a photo!

Photos of my blackwork and plaited braid caul, both in progress and completed:

Documentation for my blackwork and plaited braid caul:

Blackwork and Plaited Braid Caul

by Genoveva von Lübeck

Documentation Summary
Linen coifs and cauls were de rigueur attire for most women in 16th century N. Europe. I had already created several simple linen cauls, but wished for a more sophisticated, decorative head covering. My research showed that coifs and cauls could be elaborately embroidered, and blackwork and plaited braid stitches were employed. After studying examples in the Victoria and Albert Museum, I used the backstitch and Holbein stitch in green silk thread, as well as the plaited braid stitch in gold metallic thread, on 32-count linen. All of my blackwork fill patterns are based on historical sources found in th Victoria and Albert Museum, photos of extant pieces in Patterns of Fashion 4 by Janet Arnold, and historically-based patterns in The New Carolinginan Modelbook.
(more…)

Blackwork Embroidery Booklet

I’ve written a 16-page booklet on Blackwork Embroidery for those interested in learning how to do it. The booklet introduces blackwork, offers a brief history, illustrates the two main stitches (double running, or Holbien, and backstitch), and offers hands-on practice in four phases of increasing difficulty with a pattern based on a period design. Included are photos, stitch diagrams, and color-coded patterns. This is the same booklet I handed out during my Blackwork Embroidery class at 12th Night in the Canton of Ealdnordwuda, with a few minor updates based on questions asked during class. The booklet is current available as a PDF file, and I will put it online as a web-based booklet in the future as well.

Click Here to Download My Blackwork Embroidery Booklet

The booklet is completely free, though please note that I am retaining the copyright. The only thing I ask in return is that if you do any of the hands-on activities, and are pleased with your progress, please send me a photo! Any and all feedback is welcome, as are questions!

One of my students at my first blackwork class!

By the way, my Blackwork Embroidery class was a success! The tiny classroom I was in had only 10 chairs, but 13 people showed up and were willing to crowd around the table to learn about blackwork! Everyone managed to complete phases 1 and 2 in the short time we were there (everyone!) and several people started phase 3. I was so happy to see everyone embroidering and making progress. I used a pegboard painted white and black yarn to show how blackwork stitches work on a larger scale, and that seemed to help everyone. I am just hoping someone finishes the project and sends me a photo. In fact, I am going to issue a challenge — anyone who takes one of my blackwork classes (as I will definitely be doing more) and completes their project gets a little reward from me. Just show me your completed blackwork at a future event/class to redeem your reward!

I am teaching my first class in blackwork embroidery at Twelfth Night in the Canton of Ealdonordwuda on at 2:00 pm on January 7th, 2012, and my next class will be at Val Day on February 11 in the Canton of Three Hills! The class is an introduction to the beautiful blackwork embroidery popular during the 16th century. Students will receive a small kit with everything they need to make a simple needlebook case, including:

Blackwork Embroidery Kit

Students will have the choice to use either the Aida cloth or the linen cloth (it’s easier to see the threads on the Aids cloth, but the linen cloth is actually period-appropriate) as well as the choice to make a small design or a more elaborate one. It’s possible to start with the simple design and move to the more elaborate design if it’s appealing. Here is the simple design on Aida cloth, which I anticipate can be completed within the space of my class:

A Simple Blackwork Needlebook

The blackwork design on my needlebook is based on the blackwork collar seen in the miniature of Mrs Jane Small by Hans Holbein in 1536. I did alter the pattern very slightly to depict a small heart rather than a cross inside the diamond, but otherwise I believe it appears very similar.

Jane Small and her blackwork (red and gold line = original; blue line = my modifications)

I’ve charted the pattern out so that it can be stitched to appear the same on the reverse side of the fabric, too! Here is the reverse of the simple diamond-and-heart design:

Blackwork can be reversible!

When the needlebook is complete, it fits neatly inside the lid of the wooden box, which an in turn be used as a small sewing kit!

Needlebook inside box

Concepts that will be taught during the class and/or covered in the booklet:

• Brief history of blackwork
• Stitches employed in blackwork embroidery (backstitch, Holbein, etc.)
• Materials required (fabric, thread, needle, etc.)
• How to count threads in fabric
• How to wax and thread the needle
• How to start with a “waste knot” and how to finish to minimize knots and tails
• How to stitch a reversible design
• Tips and tricks (lighting, posture, untwisting thread, pattern marking, etc.)

There is no fee for the blackwork kit. Students should bring a pair of scissors and reading glasses if they need help to see small things up close. There is a limit of 12 kits (first come, first serve), but observers are welcome. This is the actual class description as it appears on the Class Schedule:

Blackwork Embroidery Make-and-Take
Instructor: Lady Genoveva von Lübeck
Ever been curious about the stunningly detailed blackwork embroidery popular during the later periods? In this class you will learn the basic techniques of blackwork, including the Holbein (double running) stitch and backstitch, and tips on preparing your ground cloth, starting and stopping stitches, and using beeswax to strengthen and aid stitching. No embroidery experience necessary! Also covered will be a brief history and ideas on finding historically-based patterns. Participants will receive a “make-and-take” blackwork kit that includes everything you need to make a small needlebook with a blackworked embroidery cover (thread, needle, cloth, and instructional booklet). Please bring a pair of scissors and magnifying glasses if you have any difficulties seeing up close (I will have a couple of these on hand if necessary, too).
Class limit: 12 for hands-on and kits, but watchers are always welcome.

I’m really excited about teaching this class, and I hope I get to pass on what I’ve learned to others.

Update: My first class was a success! So far I have seen evidence that four of my students completed their blackwork kits at home, which thrills me to no end! Read about it here.

Last May I was given a bit of beeswax as a prize. I thought at first it was a candle, not knowing what beeswax could be used for other than a candle. But I looked it up and discovered it was useful in sewing — you use it to strengthen your thread and keep it from knotting. I tried it and it was AMAZING. I’ve been using it ever since, and really see the benefits of it. I then bought some beeswax, melted it, and created my own little bits of beeswax. Some of these will be gifts at Cynnabar’s Grand Tourney, and the rest I’m keeping to just give out to people I meet — I want everyone to know the wonders of beeswax.

Beeswax!

With that thought in mind, I’ve compiled a list of uses of beeswax, from medieval times to today:

1. Sewing – run your thread through the beeswax several times to strengthen it and minimize knotting.
2. Leather armor – use it to harden leather for body armor
3. Metal armor – useful in lubricating armorsmithing tools, and for polishing to a mirror-like finish
4. Blacksmithing – used to finish ironwork, giving a nice sheen and preventing rust
5. Basketweaving – used for pine-needle baskets
6. Woodworking – a period finish for wood when mixed with mineral oil
7. Archery – used to wax and protect the bowstring
8. Sealing wax – mixed with shellac and oil, it because a flexible wax for sealing documents
9. Bronze preservation – mixed with turpentine, it keeps bronze in good condition and untarnished
10. Camping – waterproofs tent seams

That’s not all — you can also use it to make candles, ornaments, soap, crayons, wood filler, jar seals, lip balm, etc. etc. It even has medicinal uses — beeswax is used for lowering cholesterol and for relieving pain. It is also used for swelling, ulcers, and hiccups.

Beeswax has a high melting point of 144 to 147°F, so you can keep it with you without fear of it melting.

Oh, and it smells divine.

Everyone should have some beeswax! Come see me at Cynnabar’s Grand Tourney on December 3 and I’ll give you some 100% beeswax.

16th century Germans wore many hats, one of which we call a Tellerbarett (platter hat). You can see versions of this large, round, flat hat in many paintings and woodcuts of the era. I could find no reference to surviving hats from this era, so I have only images to go by. It seems clear to me that the hats were constructed in different ways — each of the three images below shows a slightly different construction — but they all share the large, round shape and feathers are common.

Doppelsoldner and Campfrau

Magdelena of Saxony

Judith

So I set out to create my own. I wanted one in red wool, with the top slashed to show black wool underneath, and white ostrich feathers. Here’s my result:

My Red Tellerbarett

Top of Tellerbarett

Tellerbarett Underside

This is a big hat, and I may need a shot of courage to wear it, but I really like it. The feathers are wispy and fun. And I like the pattern I slashed into the top (they are winged hearts) — it’s not traditional, sure, but it makes it unique and personal.

Here’s how I made my Tellerbarett:

1. Cut out two pieces of wool (one in main color, one in constrasting color) in 20 inch diameters.
2. (Optional) “Slash” (cut with good, sharp fabric shears) a pattern in the circle of your main color wool. If your wool is likely to fray, either hem the edges of the slashings or use something like FrayBlock on the edges.
3. Baste the two circles together along the edge.
4. Cut out a strip of wool in your main color 8″ wide by 63″ long (63″ is the circumference of the 22 in-circle you cut in step 1).
5. Sew a casing with a narrow ribbon along one edge of your wool strip. You will later use this  ribbon to pull in the strip to the circumference of your head in step 8.
6. Sew the raw edge of the wool strip to the edge of the wool circle, right sides together. Sew the narrow ends of the wool strip where they meet.
7. Take two wire clothes hangers, cut each to form a long wire, secure the ends of the two wires together (I used duct tape because it was handy), and bend the now one long wire into a circle. Sew this circle to seam edge of your wool circle, trying to stay as close to the seam you created in step 5.
8. Turn your hat right side out, pull your ribbon in the casing tight until it fits your head, and try it on. If you need help keeping the hat on, as I do, you can sew ribbons to either side of the casing to tie under your chin.
9. (Optional) Embellish with feathers!

This project took me about 4 hours.